Trackin' into Kakadu

Day 47, 48 and 49

Sunday 27^th, Monday 28^th and Tuesday 29^th May.

I still have not seen a large crocodile up close and (not too)  personal in its natural habitat. Oh I know I saw George the “freshie” at Kununurra, but he doesn’t really count. We were on our way to Kakadu and everyone guaranteed we would see lots of “Salties” there.

Sunday we left Darwin, destination Kakadu, but we decided to make a 50Km detour to a place on the coast called Shady Camp. All those in the know assured me we would see lots of crocs there sunning themselves. A large weir runs across the river and because its tidal, water flows over it as the tide comes in and then back the other way as the tide goes out. Apparently the crocs line up catching fish as they swim either out or in with the tide. Its such a spectacle that a viewing platform has been constructed so that tourists can watch this spectacle.

The viewing platform. One little bump, that's a crocodile, can you spot it?

 Well the river wasn’t even flowing and of course, no crocs in sight.

We stood quietly on the viewing platform, willing a croc to show itself. Finally one did raise its head a fraction in midstream. All I could see were three bumps, his snout and two eyes and then they also sank out of view very quickly as soon as I got my camera out!

I don't think a tortoise really counts!

Still we weren’t actually in Kakadu and I had been assured I would see lots of crocodiles there.  I was determined not to go on one of the tours that provide “jumping for chicken carcass crocodiles”, I wanted to see them in their natural habitat.

We booked a Guluyambi Cultural Cruise on the East Alligator river which departed upstream from the weir/floodway that connected Oenpelli in Arnhem Land to Kakadu.

Crossing into Arnhem Land! Permits please! but NO CROCODILES!!!

 Again we were assured that we would see dozens of crocs lining up at this weir, again waiting for unsuspecting fish to foolishly swim over with the flowing water….. You guessed it , a beautiful river with enviting sandy banks for sunning on…but no crocs.

The tour made up for it! The captain and cultural tour guide, Neville, was extremely proud of Arnhem land,”His Land” and he showed it off in a sensitive and positive way. He also had a great sense of humour and entertained us with stories of his culture,his land, his law and his way of life which made us feel really priviledged that he let us visit Arnhem land even though we didn’t have a permit.

Gill in Arnhem Land

Neville shows his Javelin style!

Paul has arrived in Arnhem Land, but no permit!

 This also makes for a positive sign that this ancient culture is in the sound hands of its modern day caretakers.

Mimi Artwork at Ubirr near Oenpelli crossing into Arnhem land

We also visitied two different areas of the large national park to view Aboriginal art work which was up to 5,000 years old. I find it overwhelming to view paintings that have been painted with a stick paintbrush and ochre onto rocks and they are still crisp, clear and devoid of any fancy protection or fixative.

It was a real privilege to view the rock paintings at Nourlangie Rocks. A very Handsome warrior! 2000 years old!

Paul and I also climbed 2km up to the top of Mirrai lookout which gave us views across the vast area of Kakadu towards Arnhem Land and south to Mary River and West to South Alligator River.

We don't swim in these Billabongs!

I will be sad to leave this beautiful country; its ancient culture, the majesty of the huge rock plateaus, beautiful blue billabongs laced with lotus lilies and white egrets dotting the shore line, they all blend to provide a lasting memory of a beautiful part of our country, Australia