Sunday, 13 May 2012

One more river on the Gibb River Road


Days 27, 28 and 29
 Sunday, Monday ,Tuesday, 7th, 8th and 9th May   We have now spent 5 days on the Gibb River Road

 Day 27
We travelled from Imintji to Mount Barnett Road house, a very short distance by our usual standards but we were still worried sick about the wheel on the trailer. Also there were several spectacular gorges to see in this area. We had missed the opportunity to see Bell gorge as the road was still closed because of the wet season damage, so we didn’t want to miss visiting Galvan’s Gorge and Manning Gorge.
Paul swimming at Galvan's falls in Galvan's Gorge
We camped at Manning Gorge on the banks of the Manning River. The water holes were beautiful and the locals assured us that there were only small “freshies”  in the water. The easiest way to access Manning falls was to swim across this waterhole and then hike up into the Gorge to the waterfall at the top.
So we spent the day hiking into gorges and swimming at the waterfalls. A much more relaxing day than yesterday!

Day 28 and 29   Tuesday/ Wednesday 8th and 9th May Still On the Gibb River Road

We left Manning Gorge early and drove the 220Kms to Ellenbrae Homestead. Paul was still stressing about the axle and its ability to “shed” a tyre due to the stripped thread, so again we took it fairly easy. Our Guardian Angels had recommended the Devonshire tea at Ellenbrae so we decided to not only partake of scones, jam and cream but also to stay the night. We parked in Ringers Campsite which contained a very quirky and artistic facilities block, including a donkey which had to be fired up for hot water and also a shower and bath which were basically out in the open.
The facilities brought back memories. The Donkey to heat the water.
Wednesday we were up early, packed up camp and drove up to the homestead for our breakfast of scones, jam and cream, and also for Paul to recheck the bearings on the trailer. So much care has been given to these wheels, surely they will keep us going.
The Gibb River "Road"!  Track would be a better description!
This was our 5th day on the Gibb River road, and the end was in sight. The Pentacost River and El Questro station.
I was quite impressed by the size of the Durack river crossing (One of the rivers that feed into the 5 river system), it was huge so it was quite an ambitious crossing. Paul “Tip toed” over rocks trying to spare the trailer axle as much as possible.
Durack Creek Crossing
Now there was only one more river crossing.
One more River crossing and we would be at the end of the Gibb River Road.
We had heard many stories about “the Pentacost’
We knew our next campsite at El Questro was on the banks of the Pentacost. We had read numerous 4WD and camping magazines which included detailed articles and photos of the crossing. We had seen photos and travel videos which portrayed this vast expanse of water bubbling over stones at the famed Bluey O’Malleys crossing. Our main concern was, as always, the trailer axle. Would it hold up to the constant bumping over the river stones?
Our First Glimpse of the Pentacost
We were looking forward to this crossing. It heralded near completion of the Gibb River Road and the wheel was still on.
We drove over a crest and there it was! A huge, fast river of water flowing through magnificent towering cliffs.  It then opened out in to a huge sheet flowing to Wyndham in the north. The final river crossing!
We wound our way down to the crossing.
We paused at the edge……in shock!

Where were all the rocks the water was supposed to be bubbling over?
Paul’s thoughts immediately turned to “How deep is it? Will water get into the air intake” I was not prepared to get out and check the depth! I’ve heard too many stories about crocodiles!
We had no choice! There was only one way to go. Forward!
Paul selected low range 4WD, gritted his teeth and slowly edged forward into the water. As the level rose so did our anxiety. Paul leant further and further forward as the depth increased, his grip became so tight on the steering wheel that his knuckles turned white. Paul sat further forward,…..AND STILL THE WATER ROSE….AND ROSE….
The first inclination that we were in deep water (literally) was when it started trickling through the door and pooled at our feet. I managed to grab camera and maps from the floor and also to take a photo mid stream. It looks like we are sitting in a boat!
Taken midstream from the window. No! we are not sitting in a boat!
By now I could  hear Paul clench his teeth as he willed the Prado forward, it was lapping close to the air intake and we still had a large distance between us and the bank.
A sigh of relief, the level was beginning to drop.

“The Pentacost was conquered”
As we rose up out of the depths and onto the embankment, water poured out through every opening, doors, seams on the trailer, toolbox etc. 
Draining!!!!
We checked the water level mark on the side. We had driven through water which was more than one meter deep.
The first night our beautiful, private camp site at El Questro looked more like a wrecker’s yard. Dripping carpet car mats festooned the trees, tools lay out drying on the tarp and we sat dazed around the camp fire.
We had done it and the wheels held up to their biggest challenge yet.
Drying Out.
FOOTNOTE: we were speaking to a couple the next morning. We found out that the Pentacost at this crossing is tidal. We didn’t know that. We can’t recall ever having read that in all the articles we have read. There are posts that mark the edge of the floodway. They have a series of three red rings painted on them to allow travelers estimate the depth of the water. It is recommended that you only cross when the bottom ring is exposed. WE DID NOT SEE ANY RED MARKERS. It is full moon and the tide was at its highest when we crossed.
You learn something new every day!




5 comments:

  1. Ahoy there !!! OMG glad you got out of that one !! I can honestly say I'm glad I wasn't with you. Can you guys please do more thorough research before you start on any more mountain or river crossings. El Questro looks nice, bet you felt as though you really earned your beer & Chardy after that little adventure. Stay safe. xx

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    1. I think I have earnt my Brownie Points Now! I must admit after this... Steph's next scrapbooking class is looking real good.

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  2. well done. You survived the track across the Gibb River Road.It certainly is worth the drive. Enjoy the travels through Litchfield Park. Take care.

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    1. Thanks Sally! I am so glad that we have survived a major challenge. How dare any one refer to us as the grey nomads. We have well and truly proved ourselves as first class adventurers!

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  3. Hi there, thanks for sharing, we took a month and did Gibb river from Derby, Kulumbaru, to El Questro, then back again via Windjana. I am only now just trying to get our story journaled and scrapbooked (I took daily diary entries). You are right about the care of the tyres, it was a constant worry, we went through 3 tyres, 1 radiator, (just as we got home, the roads shook it apart) and a water pump. But it was a fantastic trip. Love your pic of the Pendercost...it was not even knee depth when we crossed, a bit disappointed as hubby was looking for this raging torrent (don't know what he would have done if he can come across it though!!) But still, one off our Bucket List. You should do Bungle Bungles...that road is a legend in itself....especially in the wet!!! Thanks again xxx Happy travels

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