Sunday 23 August 2015

TRACKING TO THE BARCOO.

Monday 17th August –  Sunday 22nd August

Charleville had been very interesting, the locals very friendly and the caravan park was very relaxing, but we got a glimpse of the “real” outback, and its not quite as romantic as the travel documentaries would have us believe. We attended a camp dinner complete with damper on Sunday night and while we ate we were informed that all the proceeds from this dinner were going to be allocated to the R.U.O.K.M8, Outback Queensland campaign.

The Drought was taking its toll on all the farmers in this region and suicide was becoming a growing concern.
We decided to move on west to one of the small towns in the Longreach Shire area.
We had been advised that the town of Isisford had a magnificent free camping site so we headed off in search of the pretty camping site on the Barcoo River, famous for its yellow belly fish and hospitality.

We set up camp on the banks of the Barcoo and even though it still held water around the camp site area due to the small weir, it too had become a victim of the drought.
Our site was really idyllic, small gums lined the banks and provided excellent shade as the days became progressively warmer.



We spent most of the day outside sitting facing the river and watched skinny kangaroos coming warily down to drink, three local pelicans who had left it too late to fly out, hoovered along the bank on both sides trying to scrape together a decent meal from the few small fish left in the waterhole. 

The small town of Isisford was also the only source of food for the kangaroos and the locals watched their hard earnt lawn disappear under the onslaught of the starving roos.
All travellers were urged to travel by day as the sides of the roads were lined with roos at night as they fed on the sparse grass that grew along the edges.
The thriving industry of providing for free campers was the main source of income for the local pub and general store. We did not quibble about prices as we could order fresh bread and milk brought in once a week. We were welcomed into the free camp by the shire, which for $15/week, provided us with hot showers, toilets, clean water to top up tanks, a dump site and a free fire wood site four kms out of town.



It was when we left the town that we became aware of the real horror of the drought that holds this country in its grip. Many a story was told of farms being lost as banks foreclosed on them and sold the properties to interested internationals. Many a farmer could not face the loss of the only life style they had known and suicide was not uncommon. “Why isn’t the government doing more to help these battlers?” was a common topic around the free campers campfires at night. It is devastating to see what is happening to this magic part of our country.



To end on a lighter note I have included a series of photos of the pelican that watched Geordie chewing on a huge roast lamb leg bone.

 The minute Geordie left it he ducked in and snatched it and carried it off to the middle of the billabong where he promptly dropped it.



 I’m sure the yabbies’ were happy and Geordie spent quite a bit of time looking for it. He knew where he had left it, but because he is nearly blind he never saw the pelican move in on it.
We will be departing from this peaceful camp site tomorrow, but will always have happy memories of the most relaxing time in Isisford.

Saturday 15 August 2015

FROM BOGANS, THE BLACK STUMP AND OPALS TO THE REAL OUTBACK!

5th August to the 16th August.

We settled in to the life of bogans at Nyngan!
 It was all too easy, coffee in bed at 8am, up for brekky at 9.am, 10 minutes to do the housework and then the camp was ship shape for the day.



THE BUNDY AND BULLSHIT BAR























THE BAR STOOL

AND WHEN YOU WANT TO SHIFT THE BAR, YOU CLOSE THE WALLS IN AND DRIVE IT OFF.

HOW IS THAT FOR INGENUITY AND USE OF BUSH SKILLS!!!!!!!

Biggest decision to make was….. what to cook for dinner at night and what time will we go hunting and gathering for the evening’s wood supply.
Another couple, Denise and Paul from Heryey Bay who also enjoyed the Bogan life, joined us!  We spent many evenings; enjoying fiveses together around the ingenuously constructed fire bucket, watching the sun sink slowly into the west.





We were starting to become very sedentary! This wasn’t what we were supposed to do, we are nomads……… nomads wander!  Time to hit the road again!
On the 11th August we set our GPS for Bourke. Several free campers told us of the free camp at May’s Bend on the Darling River. The very strong winds blew us into Bourke; one look and we decided to go to the Back of Bourke to the free camp.

We found the “Black stump” a fitting place for fiveses on this very windy day, which incidentally was a bonus!  It kept the flies away!
             
                                                      PAUL BY THE BLACK STUMP


GOODNIGHT BOURKE!

The strong winds influenced our next decision. We must move onwards, to the opal fields of Lightning Ridge. I had visited this unique town many years ago with my family and we had spent a good time fossicking on the mullet heaps for opal. We didn’t really care that it was only ‘potch’ it still looked good to us. So we headed for Lightning Ridge on the12th August.


THE CASTLE AT LIGHTNING RIDGE

I was a little disappointed by two facts. Lightning Ridge has become a tourist draw card so its unique lifestyle appeared “staged” and secondly the wind did not let up, so we moved on. We set our sights for Charleville.

En route to Charleville we stayed at Roma , “The Gateway to the Outback” on the 13th August

Next day we headed west, through Amby ”The Gateway to the Outback”, through Mitchell , also “the Gateway to the Outback”, Morven……you guessed it also “The gateway to the Outback”, we were becoming confused, when were we going to arrive in the outback? How much further west did we need to drive to reach the Outback.
We got our answer on arrival in Charleville. “The Real Outback town”
We enjoyed the company of this hospitable town, enjoyed its history, pubs and the spirit of the locals who are very proud of their town. 


VORTEX RAINMAKER CANNONS


WHEN THEY DON'T WORK YOU USE ONE OF THESE!

We also enjoyed the company of an old school mate who now proudly calls himself a local. Thanks for your hospitality Wadey!



Wednesday 5 August 2015

TRACKING THROUGH THE SNOW TO NYNGAN ON THE BOGAN

4th August 2015

We took the advice of the tourist agent again the next day, 4th of August, and stuck to touring the countryside rather than walking.  The history of Bathurst is extremely interesting, both from a settlement point of view and the gold mining days and both are very evident in the Old gold mining towns of Sofala and Hill End.
Sofala is the oldest surviving gold town and during the 1850’s it had a main street which was 16Kms long and housed tens of thousands of hopeful gold seekers or merchants and purveyors of food to keep the miners happy. Although this town is still inhabited by many and the old buildings are evidently restored or still lived in, we decided to make our way over the mountain range to the famous historic site of Hill End on the River Turon.


 This beautiful site has been protected and many buildings have been restored to represent them as they were in the 1870’s. As you walk down the main street, you can envisage the activity and life as it once was because the buildings still standing have been faithfully and accurately restored. 


The last pub (one of 52 during the town’s heyday) still offers accommodation, meals and drinks, and just down the road, side by side are elegant houses, shops ,slab huts and the old Presbyterian Church painted by Russell Drysdale.




5th August 2015.
 The weather has not improved!  Yesterday the mercury did not get above 6 degrees all day, even in the sun! 
It was time to move on. I know we are supposed to be heading north to the warmer weather, but we do have to drive through this cold spell to get there. And we did as evidenced by the temperature gauge in the car.  2 degrees as we drove through Orange


 and I kid you not!!!!!    SNOW.




We finally arrived at NYNGAN , gateway to the outback, and settled on the banks of the BOGAN River. Its much warmer here. 13  degrees Celsius. So we have decided to camp here for a few days and Blob on the Banks of the Bogan River.

THE BOGAN CAMP


Monday 3 August 2015

AROUND THE TRACK @ BATHURST

3rd August 2015

We headed North,…. North to Bathurst, surely it would be warmer than Cooma?
WRONG! Our first day here and last night it got down to minus 1 degree, even worse, the thermometer did not get any higher than 9 degrees today, much colder than Cooma!

We found the best way to keep warm was to take the advice of the local Tourist Information Centre and forget the walking tours. We chose to follow several self drive guided tours and found our way to Chifly Dam….even the pelicans and cormorants weren’t game to dip into the grey, chilly looking waters!  A quick look at the structure of the dam and then Paul suggested a hot lap would be more suitable 

We did what every self respecting  V8 petrol head would do!!!
A fast lap at Mount Panorama !  We left “The Beast” securely in the paddock and took Collie for a run around the circuit! 

I suppose you could have called it more of a trot. No speeding here…we had to come down Conrod straight at 60Kms an hour! 



Paul said not to mention that the speedo did get up to about 80 at one stage !!!